In the last few years, car headlights seem to be much worse with glare. I don’t know if people no longer turn down their high beams, or if it’s raised trucks or aftermarket bulbs, or just shitty car design but it’s getting much tougher to see at night. And my teens complain more, so it’s not just me getting old

I’m looking for a way to improve my nighttime safety without adding to the problem.

Does anyone have experience with aftermarket LED bulbs for fog lights? Are they enough brighter to help see the road in the glare of oncoming high beams, while being enough lower to not just blind other drivers?

  • jrwperformance @lemmy.world
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    5 days ago

    The problem used to be blamed on aftermarket bulbs in cars not designed for them. But now, completely factory cars have insane, nuclear fusion reactors for headlights. I mostly get blinded by tall trucks and SUVs. Almost all stock headlights.

    I improved things a bit by having my rear window tinted as dark as legally allowed. It helps take the edge off the brightness of trucks behind me. Can’t really do much about the on-comming traffic.

    You might be able to put good bulbs in the fog light position and then aim them…most fog lights I’ve seem don’t project light very far out though.

    Depending on what you drive, you might be able to aim your low beams down a bit after installing some LED replacement bulbs. I’ll line my car up to a big painted wall to see the bulb projection pattern. This will get my left and right even with each other. Then when you drive, make sure the light is projected under people’s rear windows on level ground.

    • XeroxCool@lemmy.world
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      5 days ago

      The lumens haven’t gone up as much, but the factory rarely aims them properly to account for a full tank of gas, passengers, and suspension break in. On top of that, the compact nature of projectors or LED reflectors has made the lights closer to a pinpoint source, affecting a smaller area of your retina to a greater to degree.

    • AA5B@lemmy.worldOP
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      5 days ago

      I’m noticing more and more newer vehicles with insanely bright headlights that are also tightly focussed. Aside from a brief flash over a bump or turn, they are much less blinding. Hopefully this is a problem that will take care of itself over the next decade or two

  • Canis_76@feddit.nl
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    4 days ago

    Thank you! …and death to all jeep owners. And the clown that invented those perfectly blinding-height head lamps.

  • Sturgist@lemmy.ca
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    5 days ago

    So it’s not really high beams, at least that’s what I’ve read, and also in my personal experience.
    Low beam in modern cars has a height/angle adjustment, and cunts just pop it all the way up. It’s not really “misalignment” so it never gets flagged by things like MOT in the UK. It’s really just ignorance and being a dick mixed with newer cars having xenon or LED headlights.

    I’m not sure fog lights will make the road any easier to see, but my car doesn’t have any 😭 so idk for sure.
    I have quite good low light vision, so oncoming headlights dazzle me pretty badly. What I find helps is looking at the passenger side of the road or lane, it gives me enough view to stay in my lane, and I’m not looking directly at oncoming cars so my vision isn’t fucked.

    The only other thing I can suggest is getting a taller vehicle, or a massive lift kit 🤣

    Edit: Before buying aftermarket bulbs check what kind of lights you have, reflector or projector, and make sure you buy bulbs for the type you have. Also, aftermarket bulbs may not be legal in your area

    • AA5B@lemmy.worldOP
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      5 days ago

      My state has an annual inspection where checking headlight aim is one of the safety checks. If cars have misaligned headlights, the owner is a persistent cunt

  • mesa@piefed.social
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    5 days ago

    There was a technology connections video on this exact topic. I believe its a number of reasons, but the one I remember is the angle of the lights themselves.

  • XeroxCool@lemmy.world
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    5 days ago

    Oh look, a headlight question. I love headlights. I love good headlights. I hate bad headlights. I hate the user-errors I see every other car. So here’s a whole info dump from my head because I want to answer your question, offer solutions, explain why everyone else is blinding you, and explain why people still make these errors. I’m glad you’re asking before acting. This is a USA-based response.

    Part 1 and 2 _____ you and your fog lights
    Yes, LEDs thrown in fogs would glare, about as badly as they do in headlights. There is no truly compliant LED drop-in bulb for halogen housings. While you can get some that work very well (and glare no worse than a hazy 90s headlight with the proper bulb), fog housings are much more compact and more prone to issues with the minor differences in “filament” placement.

    On top of that, fog lights that have the proper beam pattern should only add a minor amount of forward lighting to proper low beams. They are meant to have a flat beam (not upwards, not downwards), a wide beam, and no central hot spot (so it doesn’t throw very far). However, the added width nearly always does extend farther to the sides than most headlights. For that reason, I’ve upgraded mine to true LED fog housings. These are not some bug-eyed bullshit unregulated “fog” lights from Amazon (which are really just shitty high beams), but rather true fogs from a few places that talk about SAE fog patterns. I have used Diode Dynamics Luxeons and Morimoto Evos. They add a good doubt of light to the sides, so they’re great for residential driving.

    Between the two companies, they make the standard fog light housings along with many for popular models (NC miata, ford pickup rectangles, dodge ram verticals, Honda ovals, etc) so there’s a good chance your vehicle has a replacement available.

    Anything that projects a flood beam is just a glaring, shitty high beam. Driving lights are high beams. Flood lights are worse high beams. Shitty tall fog lights are shitty high beams. LED/HID bulbs in halogen bulb formats are shitty high beams.

    Part 3 ____ everyone is blinding me There’s multiple reasons.

    Hazy housings were the original issue, with plastic lenses only coming around en masses in the 1990s. 50s-80s had sealed beam glass housings. 80s saw the spread of replaceable bulb housings, but the Germans and Japanese largely used glass fronts. So it’s jot really until the 90s that plastic lenses took off. The clearcoat wears off, the polycarbonate degrades in uv, and scratches diffuse the light. This is the classic reason for glare.

    The HIDs came along. HID housings are designed for HID bulbs. They have different filament placement and shape. But, some smart ass figured out they could re-base the HIDs and throw them in halogen gousings. For both additional lumens and for clout, they took off.

    HIDs have largely dropped off in favor of LEDs. They don’t require external ballasts and offer a mor plug and play application. While they can be designed fairly well (diode dynamics SL1, GTR lighting) the vast, vast majority are utter trash. Being off by a millimeter can ruin a beam pattern and some of these are off by an inch.

    Now combine either PnP bulb with hazy lenses and the problem is so much worse.

    There’s also an oem component to the problem. While most headlights are decent from the factory (yes, seriously), they are simply notoriously aimed high. They’re aimed at the max allowable height with no gas in the tank, no passengers, and a brand new suspension. By the first oil change, the headlights are now going to be blinding drivers just 100ft ahead as the nice respectable cutoff rises into mirrors and eyes.

    Part 4 ___ why do people keep doing this?

    So many reasons.

    Cool factor? Gotta have the latest trend. Remember drift charms? Or underglow?

    Seeing factor? People don’t understand headlights and think they can see better. The irony is these PnP bulbs tend to puke light in the first 50ft (foreground) which hurts down road night vision, while also killing down road throw by having a reduced “hot spot”. The bright bubble in the center of your beam is intentional because throw takes exponentially more light. But people see that foreground puke and are wowed.

    Self centered personalities? I see it all the time. Explaining this means nothing. Many people think either they deserve to see better than anyone else or, tit for tat, they should blind everyone because many people blind them. It’s like a fucked up arms race.

    Misinformation? Missing any of the above or being told contradictions to the above. Believing a thumb of LEDs can shine 30,000 lumens (a halogen h7 is like 2, 000lm). Clearly, I’m on a bender to fight this. I have been for a decade.

    Part 5 ___ bonus, recommendations

    If your headlights are hazy, that’s your priority. Lenses are polycarbonate, which degrade in uv. They come from the factory with a clearcoat. Polishing them will only last a couple months. The proper solution is sanding and clear coating.

    If you provide your make and model and year, there may be a halogen bulb swap you can do. 9006 bulbs can be replaced with 9012 HIR (trick of infrared coating for 50% more light from the same halogen), but that’s a unique situation. Just throwing it out there.

    If you want to get daring, a projector retrofit is as good as it gets. You can get a pod that takes an HID bulb (or complete LED unit) that you can shove inside your headlight for the proper headlight. There’s lots of variables here but that’s my ultimate solution. I’ve done it once before and will do it again this winter. But that is a whole different topic which varies greatly on the car

    • HumanPerson@sh.itjust.works
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      5 days ago

      First, thanks for the info dump. It’s always nice when an internet stranger wants to write a lot about something I want to read a lot about.

      Second, you say sanding plus a clear coat is the proper solution. What clear coat would you recommend? My lights are from 2012 and just a bit hazy.

      • XeroxCool@lemmy.world
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        5 days ago

        It’s the proper first step if your headlights are affecting the output. The irony is sometimes cleaning them makes them seem to work worse because of the above mentioned foreground misconception. When they’re hazy, they throw more on the immediate ground. When they’re clear, they throw down the road better. You can test it with a good polish. If they’re already yellowing, you don’t have much to lose with a polish. If it changes the pattern noticeably, you’re likely in need of a sand/recoat. Or, nothing really wrong with this, polishing them every month. Wax won’t help much to maintain it because it’s really the UV doing the damage.

        2K clear is the go-to coating. It’s a 2-part epoxy paint in a spray can. It has an activator button and it expires within a few days of pressing it. Not to be confused with Rustoleum 2X, which just means 2 times the coverage. Spraymax is the main brand used and they now have a smaller, cheaper can for headlights. Still, like $37 USD.

        I had a 2005 Taurus at one point. Although the headlight looked very hazy, it was all in the upper portion. The flat frontal lens was clean and was actually where all the light came out. Something to consider on yours.

        Spraying of course carries risk because surface prep (sanding and cleaning) can make or break the project. Replacements are cheap for one of my cars, so I’ll go that route when I do the projector retrofit (I don’t necessarily trust cheap head light optics/durability). Replacements don’t exist for my other car, so I have no real choice there. Just something to consider before intentionally sanding your headlights down. Could try on a spare set as well if used lights are cheap enough. Many tint/wrap/detail shops around me also offer this as a service.

    • AA5B@lemmy.worldOP
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      5 days ago

      I just replaced the low beams - H-11 - and it made a noticeable difference, but I’m hoping for more. My younger teen especially complains about visibility driving this car and I want him to be safe

      Lenses aren’t noticeably hazy but the car is nine years old - 2016 Subaru Forester

      • XeroxCool@lemmy.world
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        4 days ago

        Sounds like your lenses are fine. If you want to try it, Subaru people have been using H9s by trimming the tabs a little. They’re slightly higher wattage for noticeably more light, while seeming to be an acceptable amount of additional heat. They’re a high beam bulb, so they have no glare cap (painted tip). Presumably, the housing has its own cover over the bulb - it’s a no go if not. Personally, I passed on the H9 in my car and instead picked the basic Philips H11. Philips does a litter better than Sylvania, I chose basic for clear glass instead of tinted, dimming “whiter” bulbs, and didn’t want to risk toasting the coating inside my headlights of a different brand.

        I don’t know your specific model’s output. I would test the lights with an actual obstacle 100ft away, which is just over 1 second away at 60mph. About 6 car lengths. In a world filled with dazzling factory lights aimed wrong, drivers using glaring PnP bulbs, people cluelessly using brights all the time, and assholes throwing light bars on the front, I’d want to make sure you and your drivers have the right expectations for lights.

        Social pressure may make it really difficult to convince anyone that plain yellowish halogen are superior. I continue to see it in the headlight community.

  • ɔiƚoxɘup@infosec.pub
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    5 days ago

    Aftermarket LED replacement bulbs are generally brighter and have a different physical location for the light source, causing the manufacturer’s careful design to fail, resulting in light being aimed higher.

    To complicate this, a lot of car mfgrs make it easy to put the bulb on wrong and still have it work, causing both LED aftermarket and regular Halogen bulbs to appear to flicker as they wobble in the fixture. That’s one of my favorites!

    Newer headlights come from the factory with HID bulbs which “Instead of relying on a heated filament, HID lights create an arc of electricity between two electrodes housed within a bulb filled with Xenon gas and other noble gases. When electricity passes through the gas, it excites the gas molecules, producing an intense and bright light.” Which prompts me to ask how a person can safely drive at night with welder’s goggles on.

    Between aftermarket LED and HID lights being such an issue, I’ve chosen to wear good darker yellow polarized glasses to protect my eyesight.

    I have fog lights on my car and I’ve opted to keep the original bulbs, because in this case, throwing an LED in there would almost certainly bork up the aiming and could illuminate actual fog in a way that could cause me a level of risk I don’t want to have.

    For your case, it sounds like you really want the extra light. Id recommend you get some bulbs from Amazon, find a white wall, test the aim, and if it sucks, try to adjust the aim, and if it still sucks, return em and get high intensity halogen bulbs for the fog lights.

  • theskyisfalling@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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    5 days ago

    If it isn’t foggy you shouldn’t be using fog lights. This is part of the issue, a lot of people use them in conditions that aren’t foggy and they blind oncoming road users because they don’t have a pattern of light that is designed to be angled away from the opposite side of the road, they instead flood the road with light. This can be helpful in fog but shouldn’t be used in not foggy conditions, and definitely not to try and out light other peoples lights.

    Granted the other half of the problem is the absurdly bright lights they put in vehicle headlights these days as well but you would be better off getting some glasses with some lenses that take that glare away so as to be able to drive around in a safer manner rather than trying to have brighter lights than the other person, you are just perpetuating the problem doing that.

    • XeroxCool@lemmy.world
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      5 days ago

      Fog lights have a flat beam. They don’t need to shy away from the oncoming side because they should never be aimed anywhere near eyes. They’re 2ft off the ground and should be aimed a few degrees down. If a fog light is blinding, it’s either aimed wrong or it’s not a fog light. Could either be some shitty flood/high/driving beam assembly mounted low or the driver swapped in a PnP bulb, destroying the beam pattern